Every morning at 7:30, a group of ISMers leave our apartment on Tel Rumeida and go for a walk down the block. We stop and position ourselves close to 2 checkpoints and sit down from a distance and watch the action.
A checkpoint is an area where groups of soldiers observe people moving through the city. Palestinians walk through them on their way to work or to the city. Soldiers wave people through, or stop them and ask them for their ID, or ask to see what is in their bags.
The purpose of checkpoint watch is to ensure that Palestinians are not detained for very long and that abuses do not take place. ISM does checkpoint watches in Tel Rumeida, CPT does them in the Old City. An Israeli group called Machsom Watch comes around occasionally and checks up on checkpoints that we miss (it is impossible to cover them all). ISMs policy is that if someone is detained at a checkpoint for more than 15 minutes, then we step in and ask the soldiers what is going on. Most of the soldiers really do not want that. Given the choice of having to put up with questions from Western European young adults and college students (most of ISMs volunteers fit that profile, although some of us are from North America) about why they are detaining someone without a good reason or just letting them move on, it is less of a hassle for them to just let the person through.
I have been to about 4 checkpoint watches with ISM since arriving here. In every case, I have seen soldiers mostly wave people through. People are occasionally asked to show what is in their bags, but it is done very quickly. Some soldiers speak to people in Arabic and make a point of greeting the kids. I have not seen any harrassment or abuses from them.
The Nahal Brigade is a lot more humane and decent towards Palestinians than groups that came before them. However, these are the same soldiers who have closed down Palestinian shops and beaten up people who were peacefully protesting. They also let the settlers get away with pretty much anything they want.
An incident I have witnessed more than a week ago convinced me of the importance of checkpoint watches. A fellow new ISMer and myself were driving in from Ramallah to Hebron when the car we were in (called a serveece- it is like a mass taxi and much cheaper than a real taxi) was stopped by soldiers at a checkpoint between these cities.
One of the soldiers yanked our car door open and roughly demanded that we hand over our passports. We handed them over. I saw a Palestinian man standing outside. He was in handcuffs and was sweating heavily.
The soldier flipped through our passports, then saw my Canadian passport and the Italian passport of my fellow ISMer. Immediately his demeanor changed. He handed back everyone their passports.
Then another soldier walked up to the man in handcuffs, and released him from them. He handed him a big bottle of water and allowed him to drink. Then they let him go, and he came into our car. We drove on.
Inside the car, the man told us his story. Two hours ago, he was pulled out of a serveece and the soldiers demanded that he hand over his cellphone. He refused. To punish him, they put him in handcuffs and made him stand in the sun. I have no idea how long they would have made him stand like that if we had not randomly showed up.
I believe that many of the soldiers in Hebron are decent people who are just "doing their job". Before you sneer at them if you feel inclined to do so, remember that they face up to 4 years in prison and little or no prospects of being hired or able to live a normal life in Israel once they are released, if they refuse to serve in the army. I am not defending what they are doing, but I wanted to point out the situation that many of them are in.
I believe that most of the soldiers I have seen in Hebron who treat Palestinians decently would do that regardless of whether observers were watching them or not. However, I also know that having a uniform and a gun gives some people a feeling of power, and I know that if we were not here there would be many more human rights abuses taking place.